A brick wall can be a beautiful and functional addition to any garden. It offers privacy, defines spaces, and adds a touch of classic charm that complements natural landscapes. Building one yourself can be a rewarding DIY project, giving you a sense of accomplishment every time you step outside.
This guide on how to build a brick wall in garden will walk you through the entire process, from gathering your materials to laying the final brick. With careful planning and a bit of effort, you can construct a sturdy and attractive wall that will stand for years to come, enhancing the structure and appeal of your outdoor space.
Tools and Materials You’ll Need:
- Bricks
- Cement Mix (or Sand, Cement, and Plasticizer)
- Water
- Shovel
- Wheelbarrow
- Spirit Level
- String Line and Stakes
- Brick Trowel
- Pointing Trowel (or Brick Jointer)
- Club Hammer
- Bolster Chisel
- Tape Measure
- Bucket
- Stiff Brush
- Safety Goggles and Gloves
8 Simple Step-by-step Guidelines on How to Build a Brick Wall in Garden:
Step 1: Preparing the Foundation
The first and most critical step is creating a solid foundation to support the weight of your wall and prevent it from shifting or collapsing over time. Start by marking out the location of your wall using stakes and a string line. Dig a trench along this line that is about twice the width of your bricks and at least 30cm (12 inches) deep. Ensure the bottom of the trench is firm and level. If the soil is soft, you may need to dig deeper until you reach solid ground. Remove any loose soil, rocks, or roots from the trench before proceeding to the next phase of laying the concrete footing.
Once the trench is prepared, you will need to pour a concrete footing. Mix your concrete according to the manufacturer’s instructions, aiming for a consistency that is pourable but not overly watery. Fill the trench with the concrete mixture to a depth of about 15cm (6 inches), ensuring it spreads evenly across the entire length of the foundation. Use a shovel or a piece of timber to tamp down the concrete, removing any air pockets. Smooth the surface and use a spirit level to check that it is perfectly level. Allow the concrete foundation to cure completely, which typically takes at least 48 to 72 hours, depending on weather conditions.
Step 2: Mixing the Mortar
With the foundation cured, the next task is to prepare the mortar that will bind your bricks together. The right mortar mix is essential for the wall’s strength and durability. You can use a pre-mixed mortar solution or create your own by combining five parts building sand with one part cement. Add a small amount of plasticizer to the mix; this improves workability and helps prevent the mortar from cracking as it dries. Be sure to wear safety goggles and gloves while handling cement and other materials to protect yourself from dust and skin irritation.
Begin by adding the sand and cement to a wheelbarrow or onto a mixing board, and mix them thoroughly while they are still dry. Create a well in the center of the dry mix and slowly add water, a little at a time. Use a shovel to fold the dry ingredients into the water, continuously mixing until you achieve a smooth, creamy consistency. A good test is to scoop some mortar onto your trowel; it should stick without sliding off when you tilt it, but it should also be wet enough to spread easily. Avoid making the mix too wet, as this will weaken the bond. Mix only enough mortar that you can use within an hour or two.
Step 3: Laying the First Course of Bricks
The first course, or layer, of bricks is the most important, as it sets the standard for the rest of the wall. Start by spreading a 1-2cm (about half an inch) thick layer of mortar along the center of the cured concrete foundation. This initial bed of mortar should be long enough to accommodate several bricks. Use the tip of your trowel to create a shallow furrow down the middle of the mortar bed. This helps the bricks settle evenly and creates a stronger bond when you press them into place. Ensure the mortar bed is consistent in thickness to avoid an uneven starting layer.
Place the first brick at one end of the wall, pressing it down firmly into the mortar with a slight twisting motion. Use your spirit level to check that it is level both lengthwise and widthwise. Next, apply mortar to one end of the second brick (a technique called “buttering”) and place it next to the first, leaving a consistent 1cm (3/8 inch) gap for the mortar joint. Tap it into place with the handle of your trowel until it is level with the first brick. Continue this process, constantly checking for level and alignment with your string line and spirit level. Getting this first course perfectly straight and level is crucial for a professional-looking result.
Step 4: Building Up the Corners
After laying the first course, the next step is to build up the corners, also known as “quoins.” This technique helps maintain the height and alignment of the entire wall as you build upwards. At each end of the wall, build a small pillar of bricks, typically five or six courses high. Each new course should be offset by half a brick from the one below it, creating a staggered pattern known as a running bond. This bond is not only aesthetically pleasing but also adds significant structural strength to the wall.
As you build the corners, use your spirit level with every brick you lay. Check that the corner is perfectly vertical (plumb) on both faces. Stretch a string line tightly between the two built-up corners for each new course. This line will act as your guide, ensuring that every brick in the row is laid straight and at the correct height. Take your time with this step, as accurately built corners are essential for keeping the entire wall straight and true. Any inaccuracies at the corners will become more noticeable as the wall gets higher.
Step 5: Infilling the Courses
With the corners built and the string line in place for the next course, you can now begin infilling the space between them. Start by laying a bed of mortar along the top of the previous course, directly beneath the guide string. As with the first course, make a shallow furrow in the mortar with your trowel. Take a brick, butter the end with mortar, and press it firmly into place next to the corner pillar. Ensure the top edge of the brick is perfectly aligned with the string line and that your vertical mortar joint is about 1cm thick.
Continue laying bricks along the string line, working from both ends toward the middle. Consistently check the alignment and spacing as you go. The final brick placed in the center of the course is called the “closure brick.” You will likely need to apply mortar to both ends of this brick before carefully lowering it into the gap. Use the handle of your trowel to gently tap it into its final position. Scrape off any excess mortar that squeezes out from the joints using the edge of your trowel to keep your work clean.
Step 6: Cutting Bricks for a Staggered Bond
To maintain the running bond pattern, you will need to cut bricks in half for every other course. This ensures the vertical joints do not line up, which is crucial for the wall’s structural integrity. The easiest way to cut a brick is with a club hammer and a bolster chisel. Place the brick on a firm, stable surface like a patch of sand or soft ground to absorb some of the impact. Measure to the center of the brick and draw a clear line around all four sides where you intend to make the cut.
Position the blade of the bolster chisel on the marked line. Give it a firm, sharp tap with the club hammer to score the surface. Turn the brick over and repeat this on the opposite side, ensuring the chisel is aligned with your initial score mark. A few more decisive strikes should cause the brick to split cleanly in two. Always wear safety goggles during this process, as small fragments of brick can fly off. For larger projects, you might consider renting a power saw with a masonry blade for faster and more precise cuts.
Step 7: “Pointing” the Mortar Joints
Once you have laid several courses and the mortar has started to harden but is not yet fully dry (firm enough to hold a thumbprint), it is time to “point” or “tool” the joints. This process involves compressing the mortar in the joints and shaping it to create a clean, weatherproof finish. A proper pointing technique not only improves the wall’s appearance but also prevents water from penetrating the joints, which could lead to frost damage during colder months. Different tools create different finishes, from a curved recess to a flush surface.
Using a pointing trowel or a specialized brick jointer, run the tool firmly along all the horizontal and vertical mortar joints. This action smooths the mortar and compacts it, creating a tight seal against the edges of the bricks. Any excess mortar that is scraped off during this process should be removed from the face of the wall. Be consistent with your pressure and technique to achieve a uniform look across the entire wall. Afterward, use a soft brush to gently sweep away any remaining mortar crumbs from the brick faces for a neat final appearance.
Step 8: Capping the Wall
The final step in building your brick wall is to add the capping, or coping stones. This top layer protects the wall from rain and frost by preventing water from seeping into the brickwork from above. Capping can be done with specialized coping stones, standard bricks laid in a different orientation (such as on their side), or flat paving slabs. The capping should be slightly wider than the wall itself, creating an overhang or “drip edge” on both sides to direct water away from the wall’s face.
To install the capping, apply a generous bed of mortar along the top course of the wall. Press the coping stones or capping bricks firmly into the mortar, ensuring they are level and evenly spaced with consistent 1cm joints. Use your spirit level to check that the capping is perfectly level across the top. Once all the capping is in place, fill the joints between the stones with mortar and point them as you did with the rest of the wall. Allow the entire structure to cure for several days before putting any weight on it or landscaping around it.
Following these steps on how to build a brick wall in garden can help you create a sturdy and visually appealing structure to enhance your outdoor space. However, there are a few additional considerations to keep in mind when building a brick wall.
When to Call a Professional?
While a small garden wall is a manageable DIY project, there are situations where calling a professional is the best choice. If your planned wall is a retaining wall designed to hold back soil, it requires specific engineering to handle the immense pressure, and professional expertise is essential for safety.
Similarly, for walls over 1.2 meters (about 4 feet) high, complex designs involving curves or arches, or walls that are integral to a building’s structure, a qualified bricklayer should be consulted. Professionals have the experience to ensure the structure is safe, compliant with local building codes, and built to last.
How Much Will It Cost?
The cost of a brick wall can vary significantly based on several factors. The main expenses are materials and labor. Key cost drivers include the type and quality of bricks chosen, the overall length and height of the wall, and the complexity of the design. A simple, straight wall will be much cheaper than one with curves or decorative features.
If you build it yourself, you will only pay for materials, which can range from $15 to $30 per square foot. Hiring a professional bricklayer will add significant labor costs, often doubling the total project price or more, but ensures a high-quality, durable result.
Frequently Asked Questions:
Q1: How Long Does It Take to Build a Brick Wall?
A1: The time required depends on the wall’s size and your skill level. A small, simple garden wall a few meters long might take a dedicated DIYer a full weekend—one day for the foundation and another for laying the bricks. For a beginner, it’s wise to plan for more time. Professional bricklayers work much faster and could complete a similar job in a single day.
Q2: What Is the Best Mortar Mix for a Garden Wall?
A2: A standard mortar mix for an outdoor garden wall is a ratio of 5 parts building sand to 1 part cement. Adding a plasticizer to the mix is highly recommended, as it improves the mortar’s workability and flexibility, reducing the risk of cracking due to temperature changes. You can also buy pre-mixed mortar bags where you just need to add water.
Q3: Do I Need Planning Permission for a Garden Wall?
A3: This depends on your local regulations, the wall’s height, and its location. Generally, a garden wall under 1 meter (about 3.3 feet) high does not require planning permission. If the wall is adjacent to a highway or road, the height limit might be lower. For walls over 2 meters high, you will almost certainly need permission. Always check with your local planning authority before starting work.
Q4: How Do I Calculate How Many Bricks I Need?
A4: To estimate the number of bricks, first calculate the total area of your wall in square meters or square feet (length x height). A standard brick wall requires approximately 60 bricks per square meter (or about 7 bricks per square foot). It is always a good practice to add an extra 10% to your final number to account for breakages, cuts, and any mistakes.
Conclusion
Building a brick wall in your garden is an ambitious but achievable project that adds lasting value and character to your home. By following these steps on how to build a brick wall in garden carefully, from preparing a solid foundation to the final pointing of the joints, you can create a professional-quality structure.
Patience and attention to detail are key, but the result is a durable, timeless feature that you can proudly say you built yourself.